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Last year $200 billion worth of clothes were returned to stores for being the wrong fit, but new technology could make that a thing of the past.

Part of an ongoing series on obesity in America

When you think of spandex, 1970s disco mania may come to mind. Spandex came off the dance floor and into everyone's closet — stretchy leggings, jumpsuits and leg warmers were the rage. But spandex had a life before disco. It was invented by two DuPont chemists. It made its debut in 1959, first used in bras and jockstraps, as well as in workout gear.

But it quickly became known as a "wonder" fiber — it can stretch more than 100 percent and snap right back to shape. It is estimated that of the 20.5 billion pieces of clothing Americans bought last year, 80 percent of those garments had spandex in them. And as the waistlines of Americans have expanded, their clothes have been stretching with them — largely thanks to the synthetic fabric.

When Jennette Fulda shops for a dress, she doesn't think only about the color and style. She thinks about how long it will fit her.

She lost 200 pounds between 2005 and 2008, dropping from a size 32 to 12. Then she gained enough to buy clothes in size 18 and 20. When her weight is changing, she doesn't want to "sink 100 bucks into one item," says the 30-year-old Web designer and author from Chapel Hill, N.C.

The fashion industry is trying new tricks to win over shoppers like Ms. Fulda and address a perplexing gap: Although at least one-third of American women are plus-size, sales of plus-size clothing hover around 15% of women's apparel sales.

Alvanon chief executive Janice Wang said: 'People are frustrated and confused by the different sizes and fits they find on the high street. 'The industry uses an hourglass figure, which has not changed for many years.

Retailers looking to expand across European markets are being provided with 'one size fits all' mannequins designed from scanning data collated across the region by sizing company Alvanon, whose clients include George, Lacoste, Levi's and Nike.

You know that one prized pair of pants that fits you just right? Well, stocking your wardrobe with similarly flattering items is not as tough as it may seem. While the perfect pants, dress and blazer may seem elusive, it's just a matter of knowing what to look for in the dressing room. We talked to the experts and learned what to zero in on—and when to head to the tailor to let them work their magic.

The measurements for the Uman silhouette were tailored through a study of 3,500 men commissioned from Alvanon, the largest database of consumers' body measurements in the the world.

Reading the latest Which? report, "Nine in 10 women 'annoyed' by high street sizes", one is overhelmed with a sense of dejavu.

"When it comes to fit across different body types and seasons, it's far better to be consistently wrong than to be inconsistently right. Playing with fit for a season is often the kiss of death for a brand. Even if you're not 100% right, just do it [fit] consistently. And if you do it consistently and it's right too, then that's the best of both worlds" - Ed Gribbin

Ed Gribbin, president of sizing firm AlvaInsight, a division of Alvanon, tells just-style: "Shape is not 'replacing' sizing, but it is increasingly being used to differentiate sizes and allow brands to broaden their appeal. There will always be smaller and larger women, hence the need for sizes; however, more and more brands are realising and acknowledging that at any given size there are a multitude of different body shapes."

As part of the July management briefing on 'Size matters,' just-style spoke with Ed Gribbin, president of Alvainsight, a division of size and fit specialist Alvanon. Below are ten sizing soundbites from Gribbin that show just how important size and fit issues are in helping brands and retailers maintain a competitive edge and build their businesses in new and existing markets.

Market researcher Mintel predicts overall apparel sales in the USA will rise to USD30bn in 2011 and by 3.4% in years after, according to its 2009 'plus size teens and women' report.

However, the plus-sized market remains under-served by the apparel industry, according to Ed Gribbin, president of Alvainsight, a division of size and fit specialist Alvanon which holds the industry's largest body-scan database.

"The question we're always asked is 'can we have a global fit'?" explains Ed Gribbin, president of Alvainsight, a division of size and fit specialist Alvanon. "And the answer is unless you're selling a one-size-fits-all snuggie, there's no such thing as a global fit." "Most western brands survive the first couple of years in new markets just based on novelty and newness, especially if they have cutting edge design," he tells just-style.

USEDTO TALKING ABOUT THE DISCREPANCY IN WOMEN'S SIZING FROM BRAND TO BRAND. Gribbon knows that when female consumers think of size. a number pops into their head. Often they1I be attracted by colou r and style before they even co nsider the size and theyknow that different brands don't fit the same. Therefore, they make snap judgments about whether or not an item will fit When it comes to intlmates. they might know their bra size. but are not sure whether it fits.

"Outstanding.excellent.invaluable" were some of the superlatives used by delegates to describe the advice and information they received at the ASBCI sizing and fit seminar, 'Sizing up the global market.' Nearly 160 delegates from across the fashion and corporate clothing sectors, attended the seminar at the Barceló Hotel in Daventry, organised by the ASBCI in partnership with Company Clothing magazine and the world's largest sizing technology specialist Alvanon.

Entitled 'Sizing up the global market,'it will platform some of the clothing industry's foremost specialists in sizing and fit including Ed Gribbin, president of Alvasight, a division of Alvanon, which holds the industry's largest body-scan database.

Ed Gribbin, president of AlvaInsight, a division of size and fit specialist Alvanon, agrees. "Companies need to position themselves to get through the economic slowdown," he says, adding that getting to know their customers better is key.